MOON PHASE STITCH-ALONG
With the autumn night's drawing in it is the time of year when we need all the comforts we can gather, and for me, one of these is cosying up with some stitching. I thought it would be nice to see if others wanted to join me – I’m so glad to have you along.
The idea is simple; stitch a 'moon' within the circle of a small embroidery hoop in time with each night's moon; from new moon, through waxing, full moon and waning moons until the next phase begins (approx 30 nights). No fancy sewing knowledge is necessary, it's more about the quiet, mindful, rhythmic ritual of pushing a needle up and down through fabric and taking some time to slow down.
KIT LIST
1. Black base fabric 30cm x 220cm (I am using sheeting fabric which is quite wide - the length of these cut pieces of fabric - you can always sew pieces of fabric together to make yours longer if you need to)
2. White fabric 10cm x 220cm
3. Black fabric 10cm x 220cm
4. Pins
5. Needle
6. White thread
7. Black thread
8. 7cm embroidery hoop (optional)
9. Template for moon phases* (see below for how to make this)
10. Something to (temporarily) mark the fabric: fabric pen/tailor’s chalk/pencil/pen
11. Scissors – sharp enough to cut through fabric
INSTRUCTIONS
The above image is what I am referring to in this project.
Note, I am going to talk about the fabrics I have included in the stitch kits available from my shop in these instructions, but you can use your own materials and alter the instructions where appropriate.
I have used grey in this illustration in order to make the plan clear, but in reality, this is black
Note: if you have purchased a kit this next part is already done for you!
Take your white and black 10cm strips of fabric, place together lining them up along one of the long edges (if your fabric has a prominent right and wrong side make sure you place right sides together). Pin these in place and sew together leaving an 8mm seam allowance (if you have a sewing machine this would be handy here to speed things along, but sewing by hand will work just as well, you might want to draw a line 8mm from the edge of the fabric to follow to keep the line of stitches as straight as possible. I recommend using backstitch**
Once complete press the seam open with an iron.
**
2. This piece of joined fabric will be the basis for the moon in its phases. I have created a template to help get even transitions between each moon. Note: if you have purchased the kit this template is already made for you. My *template is based on the size of the embroidery hoop I am using – mine is 7cm across the diameter of the internal space. Using some thin card (like a used cereal box) draw around the inside of the hoop. Put the embroidery hoop to one side. With a ruler dissect the circle you have drawn with 13 equally spaced lines – leaving 14 gaps in between like this:
I find it helpful to number the spaces to help me keep track of where I am in the moon phase when I come to marking out on the fabric each circular moon:
2 > 15 and then back the other way 30 < 17, like this:
Cut out this circle. Your template is complete.
3. Using your template draw around it on the black and white fabric using a pen/pencil/fabric pen.
- Your first moon with be completely black so place the template accordingly.
- For your second moon, use your template and line up your circle with the first segment (marked as 2) where your black and white fabrics meet (with 13/14 black and 1/14 white), draw around your template.
- Continue like this, shifting your template each time to follow the phases 3-15,
- Next, create your ‘full moon’ by drawing around your template on the white fabric only.
- Using your template guides follow the process above, but this time in reverse order 17-30. At this stage you may find it helpful to number each fabric moon circle using a fabric pen, sticker or washi tape, but it’s not essential.
4. Cut out all your circles and keep them together ready for the stitch-along.
5. Next, it is time to prepare your base fabric. The design I am working with plays with there being invisible, but distinct, lines of dark and light flowing through the work, to create this I have found that marking a temporary line to follow helps to keep on track. Measure 11cm and 18cm (based on the diameter of each moon being 7cm- alter your spacing accordingly) in from one of the long edges of the fabric. Mark these lines with tailor’s chalk, (if you don’t have this you could use a fabric pen or a normal pen or pencil used at discreet intervals down the line).
6. Using a contrasting thread highlight the lines with a tacking stitch (a long running stitch***) this will be removed at the end.
***
7. Place and pin your first (black) moon at one end of your strip of fabric (about 5cm from the edge) in line with the outer edge of one of the lines you have stitched. Going forward, think about only the white side of your moons going into the space between these two stitched marker lines. Fix your embroidery hoop around your moon.
8. How to use your embroidery hoop: First separate the two rings by loosening the screw. Lay the base fabric - with the pinned ‘moon’ facing up – on top of the inner ring. Take some time to get the moon in the centre of the ring and carefully press down to sandwich the base fabric (note that in this project this will not hold down the moon, but it will help to create a distinct area to work within). Tighten the screw, gently pulling the fabric taut as you go.
9. If you have purchased a kit the embroidery threads supplied are made up of multiple thinner strands. Choose your colour and cut a length approximately the length of your arm. I would suggest separating the strands so you are working with finer thread, set aside the remaining strands to use later.
You are ready to begin. The next moon phase begins on 1st November. Come over and follow along on Instagram @ruth.broadway where I will share ideas and ways to create your project by stitching one ‘moon’ each night (or day) inside the circle of your embroidery hoop for the whole cycle of the Beaver moon.